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Dressmaking | Knitting | Needlework | History of Art

Tag: 1930s

  • 1930s Qipao: Part 6: Toile and fitting issues

    For a first qipao, it is important to make a toile. Calico (also known as muslin in the US) works for the toile, but a viscose or cheap silk can be used to best estimate the effect of silk. Calico is stiffer than silk, and a slight tightness or bagginess at the underarm and chest…

  • 1930s Qipao: Part 5. Cutting out the pattern

    Prewash and press all the fabrics you plan to use. Traditionally, the fabric is folded twice—vertically and horizontally—so that only a quarter of the whole pattern (e.g. front right) would be drawn onto the topmost layer. The folded fabric is also pulled, pinched and shaped with steam so that when it is cut, the piece…

  • 1930s Qipao: Part 3. Pattern-making

    Despite the different types of neck openings, traditional ‘flat-cut’, dart-less qipaos use the same basic pattern. Here are the measurements to take: Horizontally: The positive ease for the bust circumferences can vary a lot. I prefer a snug fit so I start with 2cm. I’ve also seen a positive ease of 10cm that worked very…

  • 1930s Qipao: Part 2. Materials and tools

    Most qipaos in museum collections are in silk, including satin, crepe, velvet, georgette and silks with woven patterns. Other natural materials were also used. Wool is one choice for colder weathers (other choices include quilted cotton and adding thicker linings). Cotton is more affordable and more suitable for everyday wear, even though cotton qipaos do…